Pecorino D’Abruzzo Collezione I.G.T. – Casalbordino – ITALY

A small, delicately pale grape, Pecorino is happy from higher mountain altitudes all the way down to hillside slopes to the coast, and thrives in Italy’s Abruzzo region (although you’ll also find it in Marche, Umbria, Liguria, and Tuscany). The grape itself has an exceptionally high sugar content and tends to reflect the terroir without reserve — it’s both sensitive and expressive, not unlike Pinot Noir, so it’s a grape for a patient, dedicated winemaker.

Another beautiful thing about Pecorino — for white wine lovers especially — is the complexity you can find in a relatively young, affordable bottle. In a similarly priced Pecorino, you’ll get much more than a two-dimensionally crisp Pinot Grigio or slatey Sauvignon Blanc; you get character, noticeable terroir, a richer flavor profile than often accompanies “fresh” white wines — notes of soft fruit, florals, dry herb, minerality, all balanced by freshening acid and a slightly heavier mouthfeel (thank you, sugar).